Have tuning questions? Ask here.

I am going to offer my help by answering any questions you may have concerning car selection, build, and tuning. I will also answer any questions involving the racing line or techniques as well.

If you are asking about builds or tuning be very specific about what you want to know. Questions such as, "How do i make my car faster." will not be answered. If you are spinning the tires coming out of certain corners that would be an acceptable answer.

Also with your question post which car you are running.

Now here is the thing that is going to make this difficult. There is no singular right way to tune a car, but there are many many wrong ways to do it. You could look at a tune that myself, BIMMER, and PLF Spurtle, for example, could put on a car and they likely would not be similar.

I do believe there are a few things that we agree on though and I will begin by putting these down here.

Your tire pressures at race temp should be right around 32 psi in most situations. There are times when it is better to run a little lower though not often.

Toe is a small adjustment that will make a huge difference in the way your car handles. In the front the most i've ever used is .1, but I have found that to slow me down more in forza 4 versus 3. In the rear you want to keep your rear toe between -.3 and 0. I typically run -.2 .

Also on the majority of cars running at this PI you will want maximum downforce. Especially for those of you struggling to get through the corners well.

I will do my best to answer your questions here and a few other vets are free to come in and tell me how wrong I am at any time.

Mosler - one person told me to go full aero for turning, another told me to go no aero adjustment due to the mosler already having a decent amount of downforce. I have my tires starting at 28.5. I want my nose to turn slightly better w/o effecting my grip on the rear end (won't kick out). What would you suggest for my aero and what can I change to loosen up the nose to roll through a turn. I Would change individual shock numbers and spring numbers in NASCAR for infinion and the glen, but I can't do that on this game. I have negative camber front 1.4 and rear 1.0. Toe front -.1 rear 0. Caster at 5.0.

You don't ever want to put negative toe in the front of the car for starters. I would do as I suggested and add -.2 toe to the rear. Check your tire PSI after about 5 - 6 laps to ensure they are where they need to be. If you can't hit exactly 32 aim for the high 31s vs low 32s.

My bad, it is positive.

At mugello, what is our desired corner speed so that we all might try to tune our cars to get as close to that speed on the corners. That way, we can adjust our braking lines to try and achieve these for desired results.

Later tonight I will put a very basic tune on a cheap car for this PI (Say the racing Nissan Z) and put that up on my storefront for free as well as a 5 lap replay so those of you who wish can practice the line and then transfer over to your cars.

Thanks Prone?
It takes teamwork to make the dream work

I'm not sure where to adjust maybe sway-bars? maybe springs?...When I drive over rumble strips (the higher ones) I tend to two wheel like the General Lee. which would you soften to avoid the roll-over?...Thanks for your time...o3

Drop your rebound setting. Increase your bump setting. Contrary to what the in game tuning guide says I do not run more rebound than bump. I run more bump than rebound the same as I do on my car in the garage with adjustable suspension. The rebound is how 'hard' the suspension decompresses after a bump hence the bouncing up on rumble strips and curbing.

I printed the SOME IMPORTANT TIDBITS OF RACING INFORMATION. I bit rough for me to understand completely but its enough to help. The rebound and bump have helped a ton. The car is starting to come into itself with Mugello. Very stable at this time. The goal for me was to learn as much as I can and not be last. I realistically want to be about 50% at the end. The more I learn the better the car becomes .

I have used a pretty basic tune setup over the past few seasons I have made from other racers tunes and combined them together anditi works pretty well...if any of you guys want that feel free to shoot me a message on xbox live and I will help you out with tunes also

First off, thanks to everyone for your help and input.

Car - McLeran F1

Issues - What I am trying to "tune" out.
1) The front feels twitchy on entry. The smallest input causes the car to dart in that direction. It is especially bad if I turn in a little early and have to make a correction. Not sure how to change this.

2) Rear Oversteer on exit. The back of the car feels 6-8 taller than the rest of the car through the corner (I have lowered it as fars it goes). Perhaps my springs are too stiff or I have too much rebound. This may be an issue of throttle control too. Also, I have not maxed out the downforce (close though) because I want to keep as much speed as possible down that long straight....not against it though. But, with my PI I can outrun almost everyone down into turn 1.

I laid down a 1:53:3xx last night so I know this can be fast, but it isn't consistent. I have to hit my marks exactly on every turn while still hanging on for dear life. That realistically isn't going to happen for an entire race. My average lap time is low/mid 1:55's.

I would be happy to gift my current tune to a veteran to test drive tonight and give me some feedback.

I ran a fastest lap of 1:56 so far, but mostly sit between 1:58 and 2:00. I try to build a race tune that I can drive for 40 - 50 laps. I have full aero now, I reversed the bump and rebound as predator suggested. I put my toe and camber where it was suggested. I still stay consistent 1:58 - 2:00. I ran with braking line on for a day. I got the line pretty much. I ran with basic and razor last night. I see that i stayed right behind them until I hit the exit of the last turn and then lost 600-800 feet just down the straightaway! Is there anyone that I can send my tune to that can tell me what is off? I like the drivability in it now, it sticks to the road in the turns. I know I could pick up 3-4 seconds down that straightaway because that is how much they pulled away from me. Just let me know and I will send it to you. I zm much more consistent now. I know that I am getting better because I did not get a pi adjustment! Baby steps!

Those seconds you feel like you are losing down the straight will NOT be made up there for you. Your car with the extra down-force and handling advantage will make it up through the corners. I promise you the straightaway on this track doesn't gain or lose anyone 3 to 4 seconds. You really need to focus on braking as late as possible and carrying as much speed as possible through the corners this is where your advantage is and you must use it in order to see your lap times drop. The line is very important on this track, like it was on bernese alps, once you get the line down you will be surprised at how much more speed you should be able to carry through the turns. I might be on this evening if you care to run some laps...

i agree with bimmer and prone 100% i would like to add that your build is just as important as the tune. I know that dont help you now enless you get a pi change. I am willing to help anyone just message me or send friends request.

lbaw hiredgun is now RAFT Hiredgun

On Infineon, suspension bottoms out. Should I increase ride height for this one? Also on the front tires, the insides heat up more than the outside and on the rear tires it's reverse. You think this is affecting grip? As far as tire pressure, after 8 laps I'm at 32.5 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear......

xx M Rossi xx wrote:

On Infineon, suspension bottoms out. Should I increase ride height for this one? Also on the front tires, the insides heat up more than the outside and on the rear tires it's reverse. You think this is affecting grip? As far as tire pressure, after 8 laps I'm at 32.5 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear......

Stiffen the suspension. That will keep you from bottoming out. Stiffen your bump by 2.5 F&R and your springs by 100 F&R. If the insides heat up more that means you have too much negative camber. The tire pressure is a personal setting I like mine a bit higher other like theirs a bit lower.

Admin wrote:

xx M Rossi xx wrote:

On Infineon, suspension bottoms out. Should I increase ride height for this one? Also on the front tires, the insides heat up more than the outside and on the rear tires it's reverse. You think this is affecting grip? As far as tire pressure, after 8 laps I'm at 32.5 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear......

Stiffen the suspension. That will keep you from bottoming out. Stiffen your bump by 2.5 F&R and your springs by 100 F&R. If the insides heat up more that means you have too much negative camber. The tire pressure is a personal setting I like mine a bit higher other like theirs a bit lower.

The insides are supposed to be hotter.

xx M Rossi xx wrote:

On Infineon, suspension bottoms out. Should I increase ride height for this one? Also on the front tires, the insides heat up more than the outside and on the rear tires it's reverse. You think this is affecting grip? As far as tire pressure, after 8 laps I'm at 32.5 psi in the front and 32 psi in the rear......

I agree with the suggestion to upping your spring stiffness and bump settings. As far as the heat issue goes, camber needs to be addressed in this situation.

The whole point of negative camber is to allow the wheels to travel, compressed in a corner, as close to upright as possible which allows the most possible grip in a corner. Too much neg camber will give you the issue you are having and will cause squirley handling on the straights.

Take your car out for some free laps, warm up the tires, and go into the telemetry. Bring up the screen where you have the tire temp/speed/camber/etc... Note the camber on the outside tire as you travel through corners at speed. I know this can be difficult so if you have a buddy help you it makes it much easier! If it is more than one degree neg as you go through the corner than you are too far neg. If it is positive then feed in some more neg camber.

Also note that the more pos **caster** you have the lower camber you can run.

I find that a lot of people apply too much neg camber looking for more speed in the corners. This only works on banked corners where racers are trying to match the angle of the banked track. Once again looking for that upright wheel relative to the track surface. Only apply as much as necessary to gain an upright wheel through the corner. (-.75 to -.25 through corners)

I hope this helps and makes sense. If I am way off base someone please let me know.

-S

I reduced negative camber, stiffened the springs, and upped the ride height a little bit. No more bottoming out and the car feels more solid. Thanks!!

BIMM3RR wrote:

Those seconds you feel like you are losing down the straight will NOT be made up there for you. Your car with the extra down-force and handling advantage will make it up through the corners. I promise you the straightaway on this track doesn't gain or lose anyone 3 to 4 seconds. You really need to focus on braking as late as possible and carrying as much speed as possible through the corners this is where your advantage is and you must use it in order to see your lap times drop. The line is very important on this track, like it was on bernese alps, once you get the line down you will be surprised at how much more speed you should be able to carry through the turns. I might be on this evening if you care to run some laps...

BIMM3RR offering help?!